| A stay in
Istanbul is not complete without the traditional and unforgettable boat
excursion up the Bosphorus, the winding strait that separates Europe and
Asia. Its shores offer a delightful mixture of past and present, grand
splendor and simple beauty. Modern hotels stand next to yali (shore-front
wooden villas), marble palaces abut rustic stone fortresses, and elegant
compounds neighbor small fishing villages. The best way to see the
Bosphorus is to board one of the passenger boats that regularly zigzag
along the shores. You embark in Eminonu and stop alternately on the Asian
and European sides of the strait. The round trip excursion, at a very
reasonable cost, takes about six hours. If you wish a private voyage, you
can contact one of the agencies which specialize in organizing day or
night mini-cruises.
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During the
journey you pass in front of the magnificent
Dolmabahce Palace;
farther along rise the green parks and imperial pavilions of
Yildiz
Palace. On the edge of this park, on the coast, stands the
Ciragan
Palace now restored as a grand hotel. Refurbished in 1874 by Sultan
Abdulaziz, it stretches for 300 meters along the
Bosphorus shore,
its ornate marble facades reflecting the swiftly moving water. At
Ortakoy,the next stop, artists gather every Sunday to exhibit their
works in a streetside gallery. The variety of people create a lively
scene; sample a delicious bite from one of the street vendors.
Overshadowing the traditional architecture of the village, the
Bosphorus Bridge, one of the world's largest suspension bridges
links Europe and Asia.
The beautiful Beylerbeyi Palace lies just past the bridge on the
Asian side. Behind the palace rises
Camlica Hill,the highest point
of Istanbul. You can drive here to admire the magnificent panorama
of Istanbul as well as the beautiful landscaped gardens. On the
opposite shore, the wooden
Ottoman villas of Arnavudkoy contrast
with the luxurious modern apartments of neighboring Bebek. A few
kilometers farther out, facing each other across the straits like
sentries guarding the city, stand the fortresses of Rumeli Hisari
and Anadolu Hisari. The Goksu Palace, sometimes known as
Kucuksu
Palace graces the Asian shore next to the Anadolu Hisari. The
recently completed second link between the two continents, the Fatih
Sultan Mehmet Bridge straddles the waterway just past the two
fortresses.
From Duatepe Hill, on the European side, you can admire the
magnificent panorama of the bridge and the
Bosphorus. Below Duatepe,
the beautiful Emirgan Park with its delightful pavilions bursts with
color when the tulips bloom in the spring. Opposite on the Asian
shore is Kanlica, a fishing village now a favored suburb for wealthy
Istanbulites. Crowds gather in the restaurants and cafes along its
shores to sample its famous yoghurt. Shortly after Kanlica,at
Cubuklu,the Hidiv Palace emerges from a tranquil grove. Now a hotel,the
palace buzzes with the activity of concerts and conferences. Past
the Hidiv Palace, the Beykoz Korusu (Abraham Pasa) Korusu Woods are
a popular retreat. Complete with cafes and restaurants you can enjoy
the delighiful views and clear fresh air. On the European side, at
Tarabya Bay, yachts seem to dance at their moorings. The coast road
bustles with taverns and fish restaurants from Tarabya until the
charming villages ot Buyukdere and Sariyer. A little further on the
narrow strait widens and disappears into the Black Sea. |
The Golden Horn, a horn-shaped
estuary, divides European Istanbul. One of the best natural harbors in the
world, the Byzantine and
Ottoman navies and commercial shipping interests
were centered here. Today, lovely parks and promenades line the shores. In
the setting sun, the water shines a golden color. At Fener, a neighborhood
midway up the Golden Horn, whole streets of old wooden houses and churches
date from Byzantine times. The Orthodox Patriarchy resides here. Eyup,a
little further up,reflects the Ottoman style of vernacular architecture.
Cemeteries sprinkled with dark cypress trees cover the hillsides. It is
always busy here with pilgrims coming to the tomb of Eyup in the hope that
their prayers will be granted. The Pierre Loti Cafe atop the hill
overlooking the shrine is a wonderful place to enjoy the tranquility of
the view. |
